Translator Disclaimer
1 March 2016 Physical and Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Transformation over a Fringing Reef
Author Affiliations +
Abstract
Shin, S.; Kim, Y.T., and Lee, J.I., 2016. Physical and Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Transformation over a Fringing Reef. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 922–926. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over a fringing reef. Various conditions of irregular waves were generated by changing a water depth, a wave period, and a wave height. A multi-layer Boussinesq model was used to predict the wave transformation and the results were compared to the experimental results. One-layer and two-layer model configurations were selected to figure out and compare the model capability. In the model and data comparisons, both models well predicted the wave transformation characteristics and setups when the nonlinearity was small. However, as the wave nonlinearity increased, two-layer model results were more stable in the wave breaking region than one-layer model results. The results also showed that the broken wave heights finally reached stable conditions on the reef flat section in all cases and the relative stable wave heights (the ratio of the stable wave height to the water depth) were found as approximately 0.56. This data set can be used to benchmark studies for numerical model developers.
©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2016
Sungwon Shin, Young-Taek Kim and Jong-In Lee "Physical and Numerical Modeling of Irregular Wave Transformation over a Fringing Reef," Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) 75(sp1), (1 March 2016). https://doi.org/10.2112/SI75-185.1
Received: 15 October 2015; Accepted: 15 January 2016; Published: 1 March 2016
JOURNAL ARTICLE
5 PAGES


SHARE
ARTICLE IMPACT
RIGHTS & PERMISSIONS
Get copyright permission
Back to Top