Simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) and steady state wave (STWAVE) nearshore wave transformation models were applied to Long Island, New York, coastal waters to investigate regions of wave focusing and their relationship to offshore shelf and shoal zone morphology. Model simulations extended from 1 February 1999 through 28 February 1999, and encompassed five wave events in which measured significant wave heights exceeded 1.5 m. For many of the storm events, wave energy along the coast was concentrated at Montauk, Westhampton, central Fire Island, Jones Island, and Long Beach. The focusing and structure of wave energy at Westhampton appears to be related to infragravity wave influenced morphology between Shinnecock and Moriches inlets. Wave energy concentration along central Fire Island was the result of shoaling and refraction around a submerged terrace offshore of Watch Hill. In addition the investigation illustrates the benefit of using multiple models to compute wave transformation processes.
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Vol. 27 • No. 3