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1 March 2009 Wave Energy and Longshore Sediment Transport Gradients Controlling Barrier Evolution in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil
Caroline Thaís Martinho, Sérgio Rebello Dillenburg, Patrick Hesp
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Abstract

This paper aims to verify how wave energy and longshore sediment transport rates could have influenced the evolution of the Rio Grande do Sul Holocene barriers in the last 5000 y, assuming that wave climate conditions did not change much during the Middle and Late Holocene. Calculations of wave energy based on visual observations and longshore sediment transport show that both wave energy and sediment transport decrease as the coastline becomes concave (embayed) and increase as the coastline becomes convex (projected). These variations alongshore create a positive and negative imbalance, respectively, in the sediment budget. The long-term operation of these processes has produced progradational barriers in embayments and retrogradational barriers along projections. In the transition zones between embayed to convex coastlines, neither depositional nor erosional processes predominate, creating a sediment balance and producing aggradational barriers.

Caroline Thaís Martinho, Sérgio Rebello Dillenburg, and Patrick Hesp "Wave Energy and Longshore Sediment Transport Gradients Controlling Barrier Evolution in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil," Journal of Coastal Research 2009(252), 285-293, (1 March 2009). https://doi.org/10.2112/06-0645.1
Received: 7 February 2006; Accepted: 1 December 2007; Published: 1 March 2009
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KEYWORDS
barrier evolution
Holocene Barrier
Longshore sediment transport
Rio Grande do Sul coast
southern Brazil
Wave energy gradients
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