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22 August 2019 Including Wave Diffraction in XBeach: Model Extension and Validation
KeZhao Fang, Hong Wang, Jiawen Sun, Jiabo Zhang, Zhongbo Liu
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Fang, K.; Wang, H.; Sun, J.; Zhang, J., and Liu, Z., 2020. Including wave diffraction in XBeach: Model extension and validation. Journal of Coastal Research, 36(1), 116–127. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

An extended version of the XBeach model is presented in this paper to improve the accuracy of predicted wave and current fields and sandy beach evolution in scenarios in which wave diffraction takes effect. Following the approach successfully implemented in the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model, a diffraction parameter is introduced into the wave action balance equation in XBeach to take wave diffraction into account. An alternative wave breaking index and the formulation for the critical velocity are also tested in the extended model to achieve better model–data agreement. The extended model is validated by comparing the simulation results with those of physical tests for fixed and movable sea beds. The computed wave height, wave-induced current field, and beach evolution are found to be in satisfactory agreement with the measurements, and the numerical modeling capacity of the extended model to represent wave diffraction effect is thus demonstrated.

©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2020
KeZhao Fang, Hong Wang, Jiawen Sun, Jiabo Zhang, and Zhongbo Liu "Including Wave Diffraction in XBeach: Model Extension and Validation," Journal of Coastal Research 36(1), 116-127, (22 August 2019).
Received: 5 February 2019; Accepted: 15 June 2019; Published: 22 August 2019
Bed evolution
sediment transport
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