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1 March 2016 Observation of Wave Transformation on Macro-tidal Rocky Platforms
Timothy Poate, Gerd Masselink, Martin Austin, Mark Dickson, Paul Kench
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Poate, T.G.; Masselink, G; Austin, M.; Dickson, M.E., and Kench, P., 2016. Observations of Wave Transformation on Macro-Tidal Rocky Platforms. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 602–606. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Correctly predicting the transformation of ocean waves across rocky platforms has direct implications for cliff stability modelling, coastal defences and long-term coastal evolution. Wave transformation across rocky intertidal platforms is dependent on the morphological characteristics of the platform, including platform width, slope and roughness, and forcing characteristics, including wave and tide conditions. In this paper we present early observations from four field studies providing detailed measurements of wave processes across contrasting rocky platform sites with wave conditions between Hs = 0.5 m and Hs = 1.9 m, water depths between h = 0.5 m and h = 6.8 m and variable platform morphology. Results show that the relative wave height in the surf zone H/h is generally larger than in previous studies (H/h is c. 0.6, instead of 0.3–0.5) and wave dissipation greater for sites with considerable roughness.

©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2016
Timothy Poate, Gerd Masselink, Martin Austin, Mark Dickson, and Paul Kench "Observation of Wave Transformation on Macro-tidal Rocky Platforms," Journal of Coastal Research 75(sp1), 602-606, (1 March 2016).
Received: 15 October 2015; Accepted: 15 January 2015; Published: 1 March 2016
cliff stability
nearshore dynamics
wave energy
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