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1 March 2016 Investigation of Wave Breaking Turbulence in Morphodynamic Modelling
Hyun-Doug Yoon, Minsang Cho, Sang-Young Son
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Yoon, H.-D.; Cho, M., and Son, S.-Y., 2016. Investigation of wave breaking turbulence in morphodynamics modelling. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 942–946. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

The effect of wave breaking turbulence on morphodynamics was investigated using Xbeach. To achieve this goal, the results from Xbeach simulation were compared with a large-scale laboratory experiment (CROSSTEX) and a numerical model (COBRAS) which is based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equation. To incorporate the impact of wave breaking turbulence, a new near-bed turbulence estimation was suggested in addition to the existing turbulence options in Xbeach. Hydrodynamics results from Xbeach were generally in a good agreement with CROSSTEX and COBRAS. However, morphodynamics from Xbeach did not match well with CROSSTEX nor COBRAS, especially in the vicinity of a longshore bar. Most bathymetric changes occurred in the inner surf zone or swash zone, showing dune erosion. The possible causes of disagreement can be related to the limitation of the depth-averaged advection-convection equation used for sediment transport in Xbeach. Also, long wave motions dominates morphologic changes near the dune area. It is concluded that more investigation is still required to better simulate morphodynamics.

©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2016
Hyun-Doug Yoon, Minsang Cho, and Sang-Young Son "Investigation of Wave Breaking Turbulence in Morphodynamic Modelling," Journal of Coastal Research 75(sp1), 942-946, (1 March 2016).
Received: 15 October 2015; Accepted: 15 January 2016; Published: 1 March 2016
bathymetric change
coastal processes
longshore bar
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