Translator Disclaimer
28 August 2019 In Situ Observations of Ripples on the Surf Zone of a Beach
Mujong Kim, Su-Hwan Lee, Young Sook Baek, Jong-Dae Do, Hak-Soo Lim, Hee Jun Lee
Author Affiliations +

Kim, M.J.; Lee, S.H.; Baek, Y.S.; Do, J.D.; Lim, H.S., and Lee, H.J., 2019. In situ observations of ripples on the surf zone of a beach. In: Lee, J.L.; Yoon, J.-S.; Cho, W.C.; Muin, M., and Lee, J. (eds.), The 3rd International Water Safety Symposium. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 91, pp. 36-40. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Ripple migration was observed on the surf zone of a beach in the eastern coast of Korea. A 3D sonar sensor and a current meter were placed together on a sand bar in water depth of 3.4 m for about 10 days in the spring of 2017. Bedloads were calculated from the records of ripple geometry and migration and were compared with estimates from a sediment transport model (SEDTRANS96). The ripples observed ranged in height (Hr) and length (Lr) from 0.5 to 8.9 cm and from 11.4 to 125.3 cm, respectively. They were highly dependent on the wave height (Hs) and thus wave-induced current speed (Uc). The largest ripples (Hr = 3.64 cm, Lr = 51.43 cm) occurred during the arrival of waves of 1 m height, the highest waves in the measurement period. At this time, the current and ripple migration speeds (Uc and Ur) were 4.08 cm/s and 17.13 cm/h, respectively. Therefore, the bedload was estimated as 5.785 kg/h/m. However, as Hs decreased to 0.5 m, the size and Ur of the ripples and Uc decreased simultaneously. At the wave height of 0.5 m, the values of Hr, Lr, Uc, and Ur were 1.97 cm, 18.82 cm, 2.72 cm/s, and 0.26 cm/h, respectively. The resulting bedload was estimated as 0.047 kg/h/m. A comparison of the measured and modeled bedloads indicated a model overestimation by a factor of 6–8. The model used the default values of 1 cm and 10 cm for ripple height and length, respectively. The rather large discrepancy may have been derived mainly from inaccuracy in estimating bed shear stress as well as ripple geometry. Therefore, this study emphasizes the importance of in situ ripple observations to place reasonable constraints on modeled bedloads.

© Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2019
Mujong Kim, Su-Hwan Lee, Young Sook Baek, Jong-Dae Do, Hak-Soo Lim, and Hee Jun Lee "In Situ Observations of Ripples on the Surf Zone of a Beach," Journal of Coastal Research 91(sp1), 36-40, (28 August 2019).
Received: 9 October 2018; Accepted: 14 December 2018; Published: 28 August 2019

Get copyright permission
Back to Top