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26 May 2020 Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips
Arthur Mouragues, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Aaron Barrett, Natalie Bonneton, Guillaume Detand, Kevin Martins, Jak McCarroll, Denis Morichon, Timothy Poate, Isaac Rodriguez Padilla, Tim Scott, Damien Sous
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Abstract

Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Barrett, A.; Bonneton, N.; Detand, G.; Martins, K.; McCarroll, J.; Morichon, D.; Poate, T.; Rodriguez Padilla, I.; Scott, T., and Sous, D., 2020. Field observations of wave-induced headland rips. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 578–582. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Most of rip-current field experiments have focused on persistent rips along rip-channeled sandy beaches or transient rips along reasonably alongshore-uniform surf-zone morphology, while experiments on rip flowing against structures are scarce. In October 2018, a 3-week field experiment was performed at Anglet beach, SW France, aiming at examining the dynamics of high-energy rip currents in complex settings. The beach is barred with prominent inherited geology, characterized by the presence of a 500-m headland and a natural submerged reef. A large array of in-situ instruments was deployed to capture the temporal and spatial variability of rip flow circulations, including ADCPs, surf-zone drifters and video monitoring. The latter allowed to identify a wide range of rip-flow patterns. Among these patterns, a high-intensity rip current flowing against the headland was a dominant feature for obliquely incident waves. Such a boundary rip current was driven by the deflection of the longshore current against the headland, peaking at 0.7 m/s (5-min time- and depth-averaged) 800-m offshore in 12-m depth for a moderate storm event with 4-m obliquely incident waves. Very-low-frequency (O(1h) and O(30min)) fluctuations of this rip current were observed around low tide. Measurements of the vertical structure of the rip reveal that the deflection rip was more vertically-sheared as the water depth increases, with higher velocities near the surface, which is typical of a theoretical rip head structure.

©Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2020
Arthur Mouragues, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Aaron Barrett, Natalie Bonneton, Guillaume Detand, Kevin Martins, Jak McCarroll, Denis Morichon, Timothy Poate, Isaac Rodriguez Padilla, Tim Scott, and Damien Sous "Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips," Journal of Coastal Research 95(sp1), 578-582, (26 May 2020). https://doi.org/10.2112/SI95-113.1
Received: 31 March 2019; Accepted: 13 February 2020; Published: 26 May 2020
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