Wu, G.; Wang, J.; Liang, B., and Lee, D.Y., 2014. Simulation of detailed wave motions and coastal hazards.

A laboratory experiment combined with numerical experiment had been carried out to test the applicability of a phase resolving model with non-hydrostatic pressure, SWASH, in simulating the time evolution of the detailed wave motion and hence in predicting the wave induced coastal hazards. Such model can also be used to investigate how fast wind waves adjust to new water depth when propagating over the rapidly varying water depth. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted at the 2-D wave flume. The surface wave elevation, underwater orbital motion and bottom pressure were measured at different locations of the flume when waves propagate over varying water depth. When the observed time series surface elevation together with orbital wave motion estimated from the observed waves are used as boundary condition, the SWASH model simulated the time series of surface elevation as well as wave spectra close to the observation data at 10 different locations of the wave channel, which justifies the applicability of the model in simulating various wave induced coastal hazards. The analysis of numerical simulation using SWASH model showed that waves propagating to the different water depth adjust quickly to the new water depth and wave dynamics can be estimated from the local water depth. The further applications of the model in simulating various coastal hazards are discussed.