Finkl, C.W. and Makowski, C., 2023. Conceptualization of sequential cross-shore eco-geomorphological units in topographic profiles: Introduction and application of coastal belt archimorphs and ideograms as related to the BCCS (Biophysical Cross-Shore Classification System). Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 1–17. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The BCCS (Biophysical Cross-Shore Classification System) is a method of coastal classification based on the concept of using cross-shore eco-geomorphological catenary sequences to define the nature of coastal belts with variable extensions inland and alongshore. The methodology of the BCCS is based on the recognition of cross- and alongshore sequences (Coastal Ecological Sequences, CES) that form overarching catenas (Dominant Catenary Sequences, DCS) when viewed with satellite images in planview. Extension of these concepts to embrace topographic slices across the coast (in a tomographic sense) produces archimorphs that show actual surface (terrestrial and marine) elevations above and below sea level. Based on elevation data from satellite imagery, several repeating profile shapes were concised to a modicum of idealized line-illustrated conceptual shapes that are referred to as ideograms. The ideograms are based on archimorphs, which are the dominant or essential archetypical shapes of eco-geomorphological environments, such as barrier, beach, beach ridge, channel, cliff, coral reef, delta, developed, dune, flat, ice, lagoon, lake, mountain, rock, till, upland, or wetland archetypes. Archimorphs typically combine cross-shore with each other to form polymorphic sequences used to subdivide ideograms into archetype or subarchetype segments. By doing so, a better understanding of spatial linkages between generalized eco-geomorphological units is obtained. Eighteen coastal ideograms are presented in this paper as prospects for stylizing profile shapes to gather immediate conceptualizations of coastal belts. Selected profiles from around the world were constructed to show, in a single illustration, the principal components of cross-shore profiles that include information relating to (but not inclusive of) topographic shape, archimorphs based on elevation data, catenary archimorphic sequences (polymorphs), ideograms based on idealized tomographs, and correlation to the BCCS codifications that include Large Marine Ecosystems (LMEs) and terrestrial Ecoregions (ERs). This kind of conceptual collage amalgamates diverse types of information into a compact format for easy comprehension of coastal setups in an instantaneous view. These annotated classification profiles can be used for coastal belts the world over and have applications in the biophysical, geographical, managerial, and military sciences.

Kassem, H.; Amos, C.L., and Thompson, C.E.L., 2023. Sea surface temperature trends in the coastal zone of southern England. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 18–31. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Sea surface temperature (SST) trends along the south coast of England (northern English Channel) were examined based on data from systematic buoy measurements deployed by the National Network of Regional Coastal Monitoring Programmes of England (NNRCMP) since 2003. These data were supplemented with: (1) long-term, coastal SST measurements by the Centre for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture Science (CEFAS); (2) global data sets compiled by the Hadley Centre since 1900, and (3) satellite-derived observations from Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) (Aqua) since 2002. These data sets were used to evaluate de-seasoned nearshore trends in SST along the south coast of England and examine links to regional ocean-atmosphere teleconnections. The analyses of long-term, CEFAS data support the proposal that prior to the mid-1980s there were no de-seasoned trends in SST and conditions from year to year were relatively stable. Subsequently, interannual fluctuations appear to have increased, associated with a period of warming between 1985 and 2003 (0.28 °C/decade). Post 2003, interannual fluctuations in SST monitored by the NNRCMP buoys continued, and the warming trend appears to be greater (0.42 °C/decade). This trend in SST is greatest in the nearshore and decreases with distance offshore. The warming in SST also varied greatly from month to month. The greatest warming took place from December to March, whilst the least heating (and sometimes cooling) occurred between September and November. Analysis of Hadley (HadSST1.1) and MODIS data sets substantiated these trends. The greatest warming (post 2003) was found west of Portland Bill (up to 0.76 °C/decade) and decreased towards the Strait of Dover. Despite this west-to-east trend, all 12 NNRCMP stations between Penzance and Folkestone showed remarkably similar results, suggesting regional and global sources of heat rather than local sources. This is corroborated through wavelet coherence analysis linking SST anomalies to regional/global ocean-atmosphere teleconnection indices at seasonal scales.

Zhao, S.; Gu, D.; Guo, C.; Wang, X., and Zhang, J., 2023. Propagation characteristics of seismic waves in shallow sea sedimentary layers. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 32–44. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

To explore new techniques for detecting and identifying targets in water, the propagation characteristics of seismic waves in shallow sea were deeply studied. Wave theory and staggered grid finite difference method were employed to analyze the propagation characteristics of seismic waves in a layer of underwater medium with a sedimentary layer. The results show that a Scholte wave is prone to disperse in an underwater medium with a sedimentary layer. The sediment thickness and acoustic parameters have great influence on the propagation characteristics of seismic waves. Moreover, the seismic wave signals were mainly concentrated below 20 Hz by collecting the vibration velocity of underwater interface. Furthermore, Scholte wave signals in underwater experiments were determined by utilizing four filtering methods and Scholte polarization characteristics, and the Butterworth filtering method can better preserve the integrity of vibration velocity signal. The theoretical, numerical, and experimental polarization characteristic results are basically consistent, which indicate that Scholte wave can be well extracted by the method of polarization characteristics.

McNamara, G. and Vieira da Silva, G., 2023. The coastline paradox: A new perspective. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 45–54. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The coastline paradox, which suggests that coastlines have indefinite lengths, is a widespread and misleading concept that has endured in scientific literature for over 50 years. This paper argues that the length of a coastline is real and finite. The measurement of coastlines allows for the quantification of coastline dynamics and engineering responses to these changes. The real difficulties in measuring sometimes complex coastal shapes have taken the appearance of an unreal impossibility. The paradox is resolved using three methods. The first examines definitions used to establish the features to which “coastline” refers. The second applies these definitions to the measurement of real coastlines. Finally, a geometrical analysis is carried out to resolve the paradox mathematically. The purpose of this paper is to help resolve the paradox and reduce confusion surrounding the topic, which will be of direct use for coastal communities and planners to assess and respond to coastline changes and sea-level rise.

Jwa, M.S. and Hong, C.-Y., 2023. Abiotic stress tolerance of juvenile small abalone Haliotis diversicolor aquatilis (obunjagi) to gamma irradiation. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 55–62. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

In South Korea, the small abalone (obunjagi), Haliotis diversicolor aquatilis, is a prominent commercial seafood species. However, summer circumstances frequently impede abalone productivity, emphasizing the need for suitable approaches to promote abalone viability. The purpose of this study was to see if the survival rate and physiological responses of juvenile H. diversicolor aquatilis changed after exposure to low-level ⁶⁰Co-gamma irradiation under high temperature (HT) and low salinity (LS) stress conditions (20 Gy). For this research, juvenile small obunjagi, H. diversicolor aquatilis, were obtained from Jeju City fishing vendors, Korea. Before the experiment, all abalone samples were acclimated for 7 days in a seawater-filled tank at 23°C ± 0.3°C and 32 ± 0.2 psu under starvation conditions. Seventy abalones (20 male and 50 female) were gamma irradiated and 30 abalones (10 male and 20 female) were used as controls. After 6 weeks of malnutrition, abalone survivability and the quantity of cardiovascular hemocytes rose dramatically after 20-Gy exposure compared with the control (0 Gy). The viability of abalone was dramatically reduced by HT stress but not by LS stress. The initially improved immune response-mediated hormetic impact might be connected to abalone survival rate under famine and HT stress, and the hormesis-induced gamma radiation exposure strategy will successfully raise abalone productivity throughout summer.

Vargas-Lomelín, J.G.; Macías-Rodríguez, M.Á.; Zarazúa-Villaseñor, P.; Rodríguez-Zaragoza, F.A.; Neri-Luna, C., and Albuquerque, F., 2023. The effect of Prosopis juliflora (Fabaceae) on the physical and chemical properties of coastal dune soil in western Mexico. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 63–72. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Prosopis juliflora (Fabaceae) is a dominant legume and potential ecosystem engineer in the dunes of Jalisco, western Mexico. The objective of the present study was to evaluate how P. juliflora modifies soil physical and chemical properties in three coastal dunes that belong to different watersheds. To determine the physical properties of the three sites, soil samples were taken inside the canopy of five P. juliflora trees and five soil samples were taken outside their canopies. The same trees and soil positions regarding the canopy of P. juliflora were considered to determine the chemical properties, but the samples were taken at two different depths. A multidimensional and permutational analysis of variance (PERMANOVA) was performed to evaluate differences in the physical properties among the sites and between the sampling positions relative to the canopy of P. juliflora. This PERMANOVA also evaluated differences among sites, sample depths, and the positions of the samples relative to the P. juliflora canopy. A test of homogeneity of dispersions was performed to determine the data dispersion type, whereas a similarity percentage analysis identified which variables contributed most to the observed differences. A principal coordinate analysis was performed to visualize the differences in the model. The results demonstrated that P. juliflora modified the soil physical properties, specifically the real density, total porosity percentage, and percentages of silt and clay. The soil physical properties also varied significantly among the three sites. In addition, P. juliflora modified the soil chemical properties, increasing the electrical conductivity, pH, and total nitrogen, iron, and available phosphorus content. The results show significant differences between the two soil depths, as well as among sites. Ultimately, this study contributes to understanding of the implications of soil property modifications by plants in coastal dunes, which will give guidelines for managing and conserving these ecosystems.

Bai, X.; Sun, M.; Niu, J.J.; Sun, H., and Sun, L.P., 2023. Energy-harvesting efficiency analysis of ocean currents: Proposing a flow-induced vibration power-generation system with linear generator damping. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 73–82. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The ocean current energy generation based on flow-induced vibration has mostly adopted a rotary generator, until now. In consideration of the possible shortcomings of the Vortex Induced Vibration for Aquatic Clean Energy system based on the rotary generator, this paper proposes a flow-induced coupling between the linear generator and the vibrator. For the vibration power-generation system model, this paper proposes a flow-induced vibration power-generation system model, in which the linear generator is directly coupled to the vibrator and the energy-harvesting efficiency is analyzed through numerical research methods. Results show that when the reduced velocity is 3.6 to 8.4, the energy conversion efficiency is greater and when the reduced velocity is 4.8 and the damping ratio is no more than 0.2, the maximum value of the energy conversion is 15.9%. The optimal efficiency can be achieved with the best combination of reduced velocity and damping ratio.

Elango, N. and Arul, C., 2023. Ecosystem-based disaster management planning for the eastern coast of India. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 83–89. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The coastal zone of India is endowed with abundant coastal and marine ecosystems. India is also highly prone to natural calamities, especially floods, droughts, cyclones, and landslides. This study aims to highlight the importance of the ecosystem services along the east coast of India and incorporate the value of these resources at the planning stage of disaster management at all levels. A survey was conducted with experts at the national level who have an understanding of the existing disaster management plans along the coast of Tamil Nadu state. To understand the importance of ecosystem-based disaster risk reduction at the decision-making and planning level, further analysis was carried out in monetization of ecosystem services. The total value of ecosystem services was obtained as the product of landuse area and the value of ecosystem services. From the overall critical analysis and the initial online survey, it was inferred that ecosystem-based approaches to disaster risk reduction and managing climate change hold much promise and that investing in healthy ecosystems provides a viable route for sustainable development. There needs to be a shift from relying on structural engineering solutions to increased acceptance of social engineering approaches through consensus-building with disaster-affected communities. Despite the structural and nonstructural measures being implemented in lieu of disaster management, there is still a lacuna in effective implementation, as inferred from the study. Robust actions are needed at the planning stage, for which the adoption of ecosystem-based approaches with localised resources and knowledge would be an inclusive approach.

Liu, Z.; Zang, J., and Liu, J., 2023. Preliminary analysis of reclamation changes in Macao using multisource and multitemporal remote-sensing data. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 90–102. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Macao is a typical reclamation city. A systematic analysis of reclamation changes can be used to relate reclamation to socioeconomic development. In this study, multisource and multitemporal satellite remote-sensing data were used to analyze the temporal and spatial characteristics, driving forces for reclamation, and nearshore water quality of Macao. The results showed that the Macao coastline is moving towards the sea. The total area of Macao increased from 29.19 km² in 1999 to 35.83 km² in 2019. The largest proportion of reclamation land-use type was public facilities land, whereas the smallest proportion was green land and square land. The land distribution gradually became more compact up to 2007 and dispersed thereafter. The factors of population, gross domestic product, number of visitors to Macao, and total export trade had different influences on reclamation in Macao during different time periods, where the population factor had the largest overall impact. The concentrations of chlorophyll and suspended sediment in Macao coastal waters were high nearshore and low offshore.

Zhang, T., 2023. Using satellite imagery to determine spatiotemporal patterns of built-up land use in relation to the coastline: An example from Xiamen, China. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 103–113. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

This study used four Landsat-TM satellite imageries (1989, 2000, 2010, and 2018) to detect the spatiotemporal change characteristics of built-up land by using variance and correlation analysis to ensure the ecological capacity and urban sustainable development in Xiamen. The results show that during the rapid urbanization period of 1989 to 2018, a large amount of farmland (70.7%) and the water body (64.4%) were lost. Among them, 43.8% of farmland and 33.6% of the water body have been converted to built-up land, producing great pressure on ecological security and sustainable development. On spatial distribution pattern, this research found that the built-up land expansion in Xiamen mainly occurred along the coastline. Preliminary statistics found that the built-up land is mainly concentrated in the coastal zone as far as 5 km (reaches maximum density of 0.37 ± 0.16) from the coastline. In this zone, the built-up land is most compact and intensive, whereas most of the new built-up land increased 5 km to 9 km away to the coastline. Variance analysis shows that built-up land density at all distances of buffer lines are very significant differences (P < 0.01), and the difference reaches the maximum of 0.289 at a buffer line of 7 km. Correlation analysis shows that the built-up land density varies significantly and negatively correlated with the distance to the coastline (P < 0.01), indicating that the farther away from the coastline, the smaller the density of built-up land is. The final regression analysis shows that a significant relationship with cubic regression equation occurs between the built-up land area in 1989, the built-up land density in 2018, and the distance from the coastline. Based on this analysis, the possible impact factors of the spatial pattern and approaches to a compact city are discussed.

Numbere, A.O. and Moudingo, J.-H.E., 2023. Scenarios of Nypa fruticans invasion: Impacts and management strategies in West and Central Africa. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 114–128. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Nipa palm (Nypa fruticans) is a coastal invasive species that has depleted many coastal resources across Africa. It is a foreign species that has colonized many coastal areas in both Cameroon and Nigeria. This study involves the investigation of the negative and positive impacts of nipa palm in the waters of Cameroon and Nigeria. These neighboring countries have become endemic for this species in the last 30 years, resulting to a 30% loss of mangrove forest. This loss had led to a decline in the fish population and had caused a safety hazard for boat travelers along the coast. The expansion of the palms beyond local and international boundaries can be controlled through seed removal, tree destruction, seedling monitoring, and establishment of a nipa palm enlightenment and control unit across regional boundaries and a Nigeria–Cameroon nipa palm management agency, whose aim would be to sensitize the public in both countries regarding the need to stop nipa palm encroachment because of its adverse effect on the ecosystem and livelihood opportunities of rural dwellers. Also recommended is the use of the palm to produce biomass energy.

Seo, S.-C.; Kim, H.-J.; Hwang, T., and Lee, W.-D., 2023. Storm wave characteristics during Typhoons Maysak and Haishen on the east and south coasts of Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 129–142. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Typhoons Maysak and Haishen, the ninth and tenth typhoons of 2020, ravaged the Korean Peninsula within an interval of only 4 to 5 days. In the vicinity of the peninsula, these two typhoons exhibited unusual northward movement paths as they made landfall on the south coast of Korea and exited off the east coast. The storm waves caused by these typhoons damaged a number of structures along the east and south coasts, particularly by overtopping and flooding. In this study, storm waves were estimated by applying the wind fields caused by Typhoons Maysak and Haishen in the third-generation wave model Simulation WAves Nearshore (SWAN), and results were verified through a comparison with wave observation data. The storm wave characteristics were analyzed mainly based on the east and south coasts, which were damaged by high waves that accompanied the typhoons. In addition, the deep-water design wave specifications around the Korean Peninsula revised in 2019 were compared with the storm waves that occurred during Typhoons Maysak and Haishen as calculated by the SWAN model. Consequently, during the onslaughts of Typhoons Maysak and Haishen, storm waves corresponding to more than 90% of the deep-water design wave heights for the 50 year return period were estimated at grid points on the East Sea and Ulleungdo Island of Korea.

Kim, T. and Lee, W.-D., 2023. Prediction of wave conditions using a machine learning framework on the east coast of Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 143–153. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Currently, technology for rapid and accurate wave information prediction is required because of the increase in human and property damage caused by high waves as a result of climate change on the east coast of Korea. Over the past few years, the volume of data produced has become large as the world enters the era of the fourth industrial revolution, and research on machine learning models that can use these data is actively being conducted. In this study, three machine learning models (XGBoost, support vector regression, and linear regression) were used to make accurate estimates of waves on the east coast of Korea, and the model suitable for the data was selected. The input data that were used to train the models included air barometric pressure, wind, and wave data collected using a deep-sea buoy (Donghae), and the data were used to construct models for predicting offshore wave heights and wave periods. Of the three models, XGBoost exhibited a Nash-Sutcliffe efficiency (NSE) of 0.89 and a root-mean-square error (RMSE) of 19.7 cm for wave height and an NSE of 0.81 and an RMSE of 0.66 s for wave period. XGBoost was selected as suitable for predicting offshore wave heights and wave periods at Maengbang on the east coast of Korea, and excellent and reliable consistency was observed between the observed and the predicted values. Because machine learning models have short computation times and high accuracy, they can become an alternative to conventional physics-based wave models.

Kim, Y.-j. and Yoon, J.-s., 2023. Shoreline variation prediction of the Jeongdongjin Sea area considering effective sediment volumes. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 154–166. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The coastal erosion in the East Sea region of Korea has been increasing because of the imbalance in the effective sediment volume and sediment transport from coasts and rivers, which causes intermittent erosion and sedimentation. The accurate prediction of the coastal sediment budget is an extremely difficult task because the sediment transport mechanism on the coast is highly complex. Studies considering the effective sediment volume supplied through rivers remain limited, although many other studies have focused on identifying the characteristics of sediment transport on the east coast. The grain-size distribution of the soil on the coast is considered the single-grain size (D50); however, the grain-size distribution of sediments flowing into and out of the coast and the topographical characteristics of the sea area need to be considered to predict shoreline variation with a high degree of accuracy. Thus, this study conducts in-depth analysis on the changing state of soil movement in wave-current co-existing fields (mountain, river, and coastal areas). The objective is to predict shoreline variation considering the environment of the Jeongdongjin Sea area by establishing a quantitative evaluation system of the effective sediment volume discharged from the area of river mouth bars. An effective sediment volume was evaluated using a sediment runoff model; the wave transformation for each survey line was calculated using SWAN to consider the wave characteristics acting on the sea area. The prediction performance was greatly improved by applying the mixed grain size to the soil in the sea area and by applying jetties to the reefs for upgrading the prediction of the shoreline variation.

Lee, B.W.; Baek, D.; Ha, T.; Lee, K.J., and Yoon, J.-S., 2023. Experimental study on hydrodynamic performance of partially perforated-wall caisson breakwaters designed for the southeast coast of Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 167–174. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

If a perforated wall is installed on the front and rear surfaces of the caisson, then it is possible to reduce the wave reflection and the discharge of wave overtopping caused by energy dissipation. Consequently, the energy dissipation helps reduce the transmitted wave and improve the stability of the breakwater. This paper discusses the hydraulic performance (i.e. the wave reflection, wave transmission, discharge of wave overtopping, and stability of breakwater) of four perforated breakwaters as measured by physical experiments in a wave flume. The irregular wave was generated by the wave condition of the target site. Three breakwaters were designed: a perforated wall with a single chamber for a 50-year return period and two perforated walls with double chambers for a 100-year return period. Based on experimental results, the breakwater with a double chamber showed the best performance of 0.612, 0.102, and 0.076 m³/(m · s) for the reflection, transmission coefficient, and overtopping discharge, respectively. In particular, in the stability experiment of the armor units and perforated caissons, the breakwater with double chamber has not experienced any failure in any of the test cases.

Baek, D.; Lee, B.W.; Ha, T.; Jang, S.-W., and Yoon, J.-S., 2023. Experimental study of tsunami force coefficients for Imwon Port on the east coast of Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 175–180. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

A tsunami can cause severe damage to people and infrastructure in coastal areas through inundation caused by strong wave forces. In this study, three-dimensional hydraulic experiments were conducted to estimate tsunami force coefficients at Imwon Port, which is located on the eastern coast of the Korean peninsula. For hydraulic experiments, the offshore topography around the target area and the onshore structures in the port hinterland were modeled by applying the Froude similitude. Solitary waves were adopted as incident tsunami waves. The inundation water depths and tsunami forces were mainly measured in the onshore region to estimate the tsunami force coefficients. The tsunami force coefficients obtained at Imwon Port ranged from 0.85 to 5.27. The maximum wave forces and inundation depth were observed at the forefront structures closest to the shoreline among the measuring points. The tsunami force coefficients estimated for Imwon Port in this study can help to establish the design criteria for preventing tsunami disasters.

Lim, H.S.; Lee, H.J.; Kim, D., and Hong, S., 2023. Beach erosion along the eastern coast of Korea: A brief review. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 181–190. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Most of the beaches on the eastern coast of Korea are eroding at an alarming rate, triggered by combined natural and artificial causes. In this review, each of the major causes of beach erosion is addressed briefly. A few protection measures such as breakwaters and nourishments are also discussed, with the emphasis on the unexpected or undesirable outcomes. Finally, some of the essential requirements for the field measurements in a beach are mentioned. Global warming has induced the chief natural causes of the beach erosion in Korea, including a gradual increase in wave energies and sea level. An estimation in this review suggests the rates of shoreline of 1 m/10 yrs on the eastern coast by sea-level rise alone. By comparison, artificial beach erosion is most likely to occur upon emplacing structures nearby. A variety of the artificially erosional cases by beach developments are described in the review. Storms and typhoons play a critical role in eroding beaches and changing local morphologies in a short period of time and thus should be observed hydrodynamically. However, the diminishing run-off of rivers and streams should be regarded as the primary reason for the nationwide artificial erosion of beaches. The scanty supply of stream sands to the beaches, together with the influence of global warming, would have the beaches eroded continuously without any coastal developments.

Lee, E.; Shin, S.; Park, J.-N., and Park, S.-C., 2023. Meteorological water surface disturbance in tsunami frequency band near Ulleung Island on the East Sea of Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 191–198. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

The probability of exposure to coastal hazards has been increasing recently due to climate change. Meteotsunamis, one of the coastal hazards, are generated around the world by meteorological forcing, and their frequency band is 2 minutes to 3 hours, similar to earthquake-induced tsunamis. Although the west coast of South Korea has been unexpectedly affected, incurring casualties and property losses in 2007 and 2008, there are no documented cases in the East Sea of Korea. However, the surge gauge located on Ulleung Island (the easternmost part of Korea), operated by Korea Meteorological Administration to detect tsunamis, observed two meteotsunamis in January and April 2020. So, this study aimed to quantify the two meteotsunamis based on sea-level measurements and atmospheric observations. The results of the study show the maximum peak-to-trough wave height was 99.86 cm greater than the wave height of the 2011 Tohoku tsunami obtained by the Ulleung surge gauge. This reveals that the meteotsunami monitoring system should be improved based on the deep analysis of sea level and atmospheric observations on the East Sea of Korea to respond to climate change.

Lee, J. and Hong, S., 2023. Morphodynamics of rip current systems at Haeundae Beach, Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 39(1), 199–206. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208.

Rip current generation and beach morphodynamics were measured for about 60 days at Haeundae Beach, Busan, Korea, using various instruments comprising co-located velocity and pressure sensors, ADCPs, and kinematic GPS surveys. Rip currents are narrow currents initiated close to the shoreline that flow strongly in a seaward direction through the surf zone and beyond. It is generally accepted that rip currents arise mostly from the variation of wave height alongshore attritutable to wave refraction over inhomogeneous bathymetry. Field measurement was performed to clarify the generation mechanism of rip currents at Haeundae Beach, Korea. The creation and destruction of sandbars could be identified clearly using data from a photogrammetric survey taken from the roof of a high building during the summer season. In this study, a surf-zone depth survey was performed periodically using Network Real-Time Kinematic GPS, a device that can provide a detailed topographic survey of the surf-zone region. Using these data, we perform a correlation analysis between rip current generation and surf-zone morphological variation.